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Part II - Crossing the lines
Morning, May 18, 1992
(Posted on 2Bangkok.com on May 21, 2004)

(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
The next day I walked to work. This took
me from the Dusit area through Banglampoo and over to Sao Ching Cha.
Here I am on the bridge over Banglampoo Canal. The
barbed wire was pulled back from the night before and traffic has
returned to normal.

(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
Tanao Road closed with barbed wire. Foreigners
could pass through though.
(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
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Present day: Tanao
Road in May 2003 (left). There has been a concerted effort
in recent years to keep vintage shophouses freshly painted. |
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(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
Protesters occupying Ratchadamnoen Avenue
and Tanao Road (Kok Wua intersection). The southeast corner (right side
of the photo) is now the site of the monument dedicated to those who
died in the October 13, 1973 protests.
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Present day: The
October 14 Memorial (right) to honor protesters killed in
the October 14, 1973 uprisings against the government is
now located on the corner of Ratchadamnoen Avenue and Tanao
Road.
After the events of May 1992, newly emboldened activists
pressed for an October 13 memorial on the prominent site
where the the burned-out Revenue Department building was
located (opposite the end of Sanam Luang).
Many powerful people absolutely objected to such a prominent
location and the monument's implicit criticism of Thailand's
army-dominated past.
The Kok Wua intersection plot was suggested instead. However,
it was already occupied by low-income lottery vendors who
were sure to vigorously protest their eviction.
Eventually the lottery site was vacated and the lottery
sellers were moved to the Revenue Department building site.
In this photo (from October 13, 2003), workers get ready
to install a crystal to ignite a flame for the memorial
dedication. The crystal shattered, leaving local observers
(who take great stock in omens) to conclude it was not a
good sign for democracy.
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(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
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(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
Another view of protesters at the Ratchadamnoen
Avenue and Tanao Road intersection. Note the English-language banner.
The age of CNN news influence had just started the year before when
world attention focused on the first Gulf War. Protesters made signs
in various languages to cater to the handful of foreign journalists
covering the events.

(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
Planters blocking off Tanao Street.
| Thousands of troops and protesters milling around--as
a foreigner I was allowed to cross all lines and barriers and no
one seemed to even notice me. |
(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
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(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)

(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)

(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
A German-language banner
(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
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Phone booth graffiti: "Prime Minister must come
election only. Suchinda you are dictator."
Before this time, graffiti in Bangkok was relatively rare (in any
language). For a few years after the 1992 events, it seemed graffiti
and vandalism were more common--possibly because of the social disaffection
that resulted from the events. |
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After crossing Ratchadamnoen Avenue, I arrived to
work at Serm Lucksutr School
(right).
After a few hours at work, rumors began circulating
among students and staff that the military was moving in many
more troops. The school began to spontaneously clear out.
I decided to leave at 1:00pm so I could pass back over Ratchadamneorn
Avenue and return home while I could.
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(Photo: 2Bangkok.com)
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Part III - A
hot afternoon
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